Wednesday 30 September 2009

Leaving Madagascar

We are by Bally Bay north of the Cape St. Andre and got notice of a good weather window to go across the channel so have decided to take the chance. Leaving this evening. A bit unfortunate as we wanted to check further south but the anchorages with this weather are not so good and Paul is real keen to get to Sth Africa to enjoy a bit of it before he returns. Its just so hard to leave places we really enjoy! We will keep following the coast south for a few days just in case the weather window (or our minds) changes and then hop across. Its around 900 miles cross to Richards Bay but if a front comes through as we approach the coast of Africa we will hide behind an island off Maputo Bay in Mozambique called Inhaca till we can carry on south. This crossing although short in comparison to our latest ones is very tricky as it involves lots of currents and weather systems that blow through the channel very quickly leaving very few, if any, options of protection so caution and a good weather window are vital. Will keep you posted but should take up to a week to get there we believe. Glad the tsunami didnt get to New Zealand!

Wednesday 23 September 2009

Down the coast of Madagascar

After stocking up in Hellville, which was quite the adventure on itself, and picking up Paul Nissen our mate from New Zealand we started slowly moving down the west coast of Madagascar. When I mean slow I mean real slow as there are so many places to visit! The sailing has been superb: as I write we are sailing up wind at 7 knots taking photos of some amazing local trading vessells. This place just so unreal! The boys from the local boat have just challenged us to a race by pulling their trousers down and shaking their butts at us! Its a laugh I tell you! Chances are they will beat us too! Anyhow just using this rare opportunity where the internet network actually works to let all know we are alive and loving it! We are planning to anchor in Moramba Bay just north of a big town called Mahajunga where we will stay for a few days before doing the big hop around Cape St Andre. We plan to stay on this coast for another 2 weeks before crossing the Mozambique Channel. We have seen plenty humpback whales, turtles and dolphins. Unfortunately no more whale sharks but the hope is still with us. Fishing isnt very good (that is for us, other boats are having more luck) but we have eaten quite a few mud crabs that we trade with locals for caps, plastic or glass containers, even nail polish! We visited an infamous island for its maximum security prison (in 1993 some inmates escaped boarded a cruising boat, killed everyone onboard and sailed away) called Nose Lava. The prison is not abandoned and only 3 convicts live there with their families. Samuel was our guide. He was arrested when he was 23 for murder. He is still doing his time by looking after the remains of the prison. He is 51 now. He showed us the prison, the solitaire cells and the administration building. After he took us to the lighthouse on the island and the fresh water stream. We donated food to the families as they have no support and very little means to buy much supplies. They were very grateful and friendly towards us. Tough life. We learn a new reality of life everyday in this place. Unforgettable moments all around.